Double-Breasted Blazer, Wool Shell, Late Cold War Period, West Germany

Chest 60 cm, Length 78 cm, Shoulder 52 cm, Sleeve 63 cm
Chest 23.6 in, Length 30.7 in, Shoulder 20.5 in, Sleeve 24.8 in
Approximate Size: EU 54

This is a double-breasted tailored blazer produced in Western Germany, likely dating between the late 1980s and early 1990s based on labeling and construction. The exterior is composed of pure new wool, with a lining of viscose and acetate, reflecting common European manufacturing standards of the period. The garment is industrially produced using standardized tailoring blocks with structured shoulder support and machine-finished internal seams. It represents a transitional period in European tailoring where traditional suit construction was maintained within scaled manufacturing systems. The configuration reflects mid- to late-20th century formalwear conventions adapted for broader commercial distribution.

I. Primary Materials, Textile Structure & Fabric Performance

The shell fabric is identified as pure new wool, woven in a fine twill or plain weave with a compact surface and moderate weight suitable for structured tailoring. The wool exhibits typical resilience and crease recovery, with limited elasticity and stable dimensional behavior under standard use. The lining is composed of a viscose-acetate blend, providing a smooth interior surface with moderate breathability but reduced tensile strength compared to natural fibers. The lining fabric shows susceptibility to abrasion and potential long-term degradation, particularly along stress points such as armholes and seams. No indication of fiber breakdown such as shattering or splitting is evident, though the lining material class is known to degrade over time under stress and humidity variation.

II. Construction Method, Pattern Development & Production Discipline

The garment is industrially manufactured using standardized pattern blocks typical of late 20th century European tailoring. Assembly follows a structured sequence with machine stitching throughout, supplemented by limited hand-finishing at critical junctions such as lapel edges. Pattern cutting reflects symmetry and repeatability rather than individualized fitting. Seam finishing is consistent with factory production, likely overlocked or bound internally. The garment shows no evidence of bespoke drafting or made-to-measure adjustment. There are no visible indications of recutting or resizing, and seam alignment remains consistent across panels.

III. Structural Design, Silhouette Engineering & Technical Resolution

The blazer is constructed in a double-breasted configuration with a six-button front and wide notched lapels. The silhouette is moderately structured, with padded shoulders and a straight body line reflecting late 20th century tailoring proportions. Internal support likely includes fusible interfacing rather than full canvas construction, consistent with industrial production methods of the period. Sleeve heads appear supported to maintain shoulder line continuity. The garment distributes weight evenly across the upper torso, with minimal shaping through the waist. Structural integrity appears intact, with no indication of collapse or distortion in the primary framework.

IV. Surface Treatment, Finish, Coloration & Material Handling

The exterior wool fabric is dyed in a deep burgundy tone, with even coloration across the surface. The finish is matte with slight luster typical of tightly woven wool. Areas subject to friction, such as sleeve ends and pocket edges, show mild surface compression consistent with wear. No significant fading, staining, or discoloration is observed. The fabric retains its original finish without evidence of aggressive cleaning or chemical alteration. Minor creasing indicates standard use and storage conditions.

V. Garment Type, Formal Design Language & Fashion Historical Placement

This garment is a tailored blazer intended for formal or semi-formal wear within a suit or coordinated ensemble. The double-breasted format and broad lapel structure align with late 1980s to early 1990s European menswear trends, characterized by increased volume and structured shoulders. The proportions reflect a departure from earlier mid-century tailoring toward a more relaxed but still formal silhouette. The garment occupies a position within mainstream tailored clothing rather than experimental or designer-led fashion.

VI. Designer, Brand, Manufacturing Context & Market Position

No specific designer attribution is present. The label indicates production in Western Germany, suggesting manufacture prior to German reunification in 1990 or shortly thereafter using existing labeling conventions. The garment was likely produced by a mid-tier manufacturer supplying department stores or regional retailers. This category of production balanced material quality, particularly wool, with cost-efficient construction methods. The absence of branding beyond origin labeling suggests positioning within a functional rather than prestige-driven market segment.

VII. Probable Origin, Provenance Framework & Attribution Threshold

The “Made in Western Germany” label provides a clear geographic indicator, situating production within a defined political and industrial context prior to or immediately following reunification. The multilingual fiber label supports European distribution. Construction methods and materials align with West German garment manufacturing practices of the late 20th century. No conflicting indicators suggest external manufacture or later reproduction. Provenance beyond production origin is not established.

VIII. Preservation State, Alteration Record & Archival Handling

The garment appears structurally stable with no major defects in the wool shell. The lining remains intact, though as a viscose-acetate blend it remains the most vulnerable component under long-term use. Seams show no evidence of failure or stress-related damage. There is no indication of alteration such as resizing or structural modification. The garment can be handled under standard conditions but should be stored with attention to humidity control to preserve both wool and lining integrity.

IX. Market Standing, Comparative Category Placement & Value Estimation

This garment falls within the category of late 20th century European tailored blazers produced at an industrial scale. Market value is primarily determined by condition, material quality, and wearability rather than brand recognition. Comparable garments typically transact within a range of 40 to 120 USD. The category is widely available, and demand is moderate, with greater interest in condition and fit than provenance or manufacturing origin.